Next, connect the ribbon cable on the LCD to the backlight PCB. This will allow you to position the LCD in the front of the shell, and provides a snug, centered fit for the LCD in the viewport of the shell.Īs the first step of installation, we strongly recommend using Kapton tape to insulate the back of the LCD.
You will see the pieces are labeled top, left, and right, and should be positioned in the front of your MGB shell accordingly. The MGB backlight kit includes a laser cut bracket for the LCD that comes in three pieces. You can also remove the old LCD at this point, by disconnecting the ribbon cable from the PCB. Be sure to keep all the small pieces, such as screws, together in a safe place to avoid losing them.
#Game boy dmg backlight no kit install#
The first thing you will be required to do in order to install the LCD is disassemble your MGB (Game Boy Pocket). Please kindly note that this is a DIY mod, and we can not accept any returns or offer refunds on backlight kits that were damaged in installation.
DMG stands for Dot Matrix Game.This guide will walk you through the installation of the Backlit LCD kit for the Game Boy Pocket. The finished device looks great.Īlso known as the DMG because of its model number: DMG-01. It wasn’t the neatest installation, but I was pretty happy for my first attempt. I finished things up with a new glass screen lens, and new start and select buttons to match the cyan border around the screen. I turned the unit back on, and there was a picture! Tetris looked great with the backlight:
#Game boy dmg backlight no kit software#
I couldn’t help but think about the similarities with writing software as I was debugging the issue and fitting my workaround. To work around this I added a new wire that ran from the pin, over the top of the board, to the other side. After some testing with a multimeter (and a lot of help from and I discovered that one of the solder connections on the bivert board wasn’t making contact properly (so I re-did it), and also that there was no connection between the pin I lifted and its intended destination. It turned out to be a combination of both. I guessed that the culprit was either my shoddy soldering on the bivert chip (turns out soldering is harder than I remember!), or I didn’t repair the damage correctly when I lifted the wrong pin. I knew the Game Boy as a whole was still working correctly, as I could hear the audio for the game. I powered it up and there was light! But no picture 😬 Troubleshooting
The guide I was following also recommended lightly dusting the polarizer with baby powder or diatomaceous earth to avoid it sticking to the screen.įinally, the two wires coming from the backlight panel needed soldering to the main board along with a resistor. You have to make sure the polarizer is rotated the right way so that the pixels will be visible. The new backlight panel (a piece of plastic with some LEDs attached to the bottom) slides in behind the LCD, and the polarizer goes in between. After peeling the polarizer off, I cleaned off the remaining glue with some isopropyl alcohol. The thing that makes it particularly difficult is that the screen remains attached by a very delicate ribbon cable, so access is tricky. This made it easier to peel the whole thing off in one go. At first I was just scraping the foil off, nervous of damaging the screen, but then I got more confident and managed to get a craft knife underneath the polarizer layer. To install the backlight unit, you first need to remove the existing reflective backing and polarizer from the screen.
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